Repaired where a repair is honest and replaced where it is not, with the paperwork that keeps the manufacturer warranty worth something handed over on the day.
Online Now!·--:--
A hot water system is one of the larger single purchases in a house, and it comes with a manufacturer's warranty that is a real part of what you are paying for. It is also one of the easiest warranties in the world to quietly lose.
The reason is that these warranties generally depend on the unit having been installed by a licensed person, to the requirements. That is entirely reasonable, and it means that if a claim is ever made, the first question is who installed it and whether they were qualified to.
Four years after the fact, that question is answered by paperwork or it is answered by nobody. The tradesperson has moved on, the invoice may be a line in an email, and a warranty that cannot be substantiated is a warranty that does not exist in any way that matters.
So ask for three things before the van leaves, and it is a two minute conversation: the compliance paperwork for the work, the manufacturer's documentation for the unit, and a clear record of the install date. Put them with the property papers. We hand ours over as a matter of course, and you should expect the same from anybody.


See whether you can find the paperwork. If it is not there, that is worth chasing while the installer is still contactable.
Manufacturer warranties generally require installation by a licensed person.
Which makes the paperwork part of the product rather than admin.
The tradesperson has moved on and the invoice is a line in an old email.
Documents survive that. Recollections do not.
Compliance paperwork, manufacturer documentation, and the install date.
Two minutes then, and impossible later.
Nothing silts up here. The anode corrodes deliberately so the cylinder does not.
Renew it and you buy years for a fraction of a replacement.
The steel has gone and there is no patch for that.
Shut it off and arrange the swap before the floor joins the bill.
Five types, and they differ in what the property has to give them as much as in how they perform. This is the comparison worth having while you still have time to have it.
| Type | How it works | Expected span | What the property must provide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric storage | A submerged element warms a stored volume | About 8 to 12 years | A position and a circuit |
| Gas storage | A burner beneath keeps the volume hot | About 8 to 12 years | Gas connected, and flue clearances met |
| Continuous flow | Heated in transit, nothing stored | About 15 to 20 years | Gas, and a compliant wall position |
| Heat pump | Ambient warmth moved into the tank | About 10 to 15 years | Outdoor space with genuine airflow |
| Solar with boost | Roof collectors with an element for poor weather | About 15 to 20 years | Roof area with a workable orientation |
A starting point rather than a rule. Storage is judged on how much can be drawn before it empties, so the number that counts is how many people want hot water inside one hour.
| Occupants | Electric storage | Gas storage | Continuous flow |
|---|---|---|---|
| One or two | 125 to 160 L | 90 to 135 L | 16 L/min |
| Three to four | 250 to 315 L | 135 to 170 L | 20 L/min |
| Five or more | 315 to 400 L | 170 L or twin | 26 L/min |
| Two bathrooms at once | Size up a step | Size up a step | 26 L/min |
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Taken off the repair in full if you ask us to carry it out.
The most common electric fault, and the reason a cold tank is not automatically a dead one.
Cheap insurance on a cylinder with years left in it.
Unit, install, removal of the old one and the documentation, in one figure.
Subject to gas at the property and a wall that meets the flue clearances.
Hot water fills more of the diary than anything else. Electric storage runs a good deal of the older housing here, gas turns up wherever a property is connected for it, and continuous flow appears where a cylinder had to leave the floor. These are the makes.
We service and replace these systems as an independent licensed plumber. We are not an agent for, or endorsed by, any of these manufacturers.








Type, age and where it sits, which between them settle most of the repair or replace question before anybody drives out.

Every unit carries a compliance plate with a date, and we read it out, because a real age turns repair or replace into arithmetic.

Anode, element or thermostat where that solves it, and a changeover only where the unit is genuinely finished.

Delivered temperature checked, old unit removed, and the paperwork handed over rather than promised.
A licensed plumber answers directly. Repairs are usually same-day and plenty of changeovers are too.
Call 1300 381 569
Because the manufacturer's warranty on a new unit generally depends on it having been installed by a licensed person to the requirements. If a warranty claim ever gets made, the first question is who installed it, and the document from the day is the answer. Without it you are relying on somebody's memory.
It varies by manufacturer and by model, and cylinders commonly carry a longer warranty on the tank than on the parts. The point is not the number of years. It is that whatever the number is, it is worth very little if you cannot show how the unit was installed.
The compliance paperwork for the work, the manufacturer's documentation for the unit, and a clear record of the install date. Ask for all three before the van leaves. It is a two minute conversation and it is much harder to have four years later.
Soft water is why they fail this particular way. In hard-water places a tank silts up with scale. Sydney's is not like that, so the sacrificial anode is consumed protecting the steel and the tank starts corroding once it is gone, or an element burns out. Both are frequently repairs.
On a unit you plan to keep, it is the best value job in this trade. It costs a fraction of the tank it protects and it is the only maintenance that genuinely adds years.
Replace. Water from the body of the cylinder means the steel has gone and there is no patch for that. Shut it off and ring, because the damage compounds daily.
Diagnosis is $120 to $250 and comes off the repair. An element or thermostat is $250 to $550. An anode is $300 to $600. A storage replacement is $1,400 to $2,800, and a continuous flow changeover $2,000 to $3,800.
Tell us the type and roughly the age. And if a system went in recently and you are not sure what paperwork you were given, mention that too.
Kept if it can be kept, replaced if it cannot, and documented either way.
Online Now!·--:--